Kırgızistan - Pobeda Dağı
Pobeda Dağı

Bölgede aynı anda tırmanış’ta bulunan, Robert Schneider’in Sn. Tunç FINDIK ile paylaştığı gözlemleri :


Wassili, aAexandr, Afi Gigani (georgian mountaineer) me and Ali Hakan started to climb Pobeda, Ali shared the tent with Wassili and Alexandr, I with afi. We went to camp 1 the first day, camp 3 the second and camp 5 the last. Ali was very slow, always 3 to 5 hours after us; but he always went on. We summited on day 4, and convinced Ali, who was very slow 200 meters below the summit, to come back with us. The next day we descended from camp 5 on the ridge near the west summit. Afi was very fast first, i went after him, after me Wassili and Alex, Ali was going very slow, we waited in the snow cave a long time for him, but he never came. Then a Russian team came down, they said they had seen Ali descending and suddenly falling around 6750 meters (last rockband) He fell down the north face. We looked for the body (next day with helicopter) but couldn’t find it (snow always comes down the face, there are several bergshrounds...hard to find somebody).
I guess some questions remain: Ali was very slow, we hoped he would turn round himself, we tried to wait but, we got too cold, he had not hired Wassili and Alex as guides so they went ahead very often.... But even if we had
been going with him slowly I think we could not have avoided the accident because on this ground, you don't belay, just carefully walk down and use the fixed ropes, if one step is wrong you fall.. .Hope this explains things a bit for Ali’s friends in Turkey, till soon!

Diğer Dostlarından gelen mailler ve ipuçları :

Son 5 aydaki hırslı kilo verme ve Sniejni Pars olma tutkusu . Sürantrene (Overtraining) olmuş olma ihtimali ..

  • Ali Hakan GÜVENÇ